Interested in Building a PC

I most likely won’t get around to it for a little bit, though. I just want to get some suggestions and pointers since a lot of people on here seem to be very knowledgeable on the subject. This is a game computer btw. So, without further ado, here’s what I’ve picked so far:

Processor:Intel Core i7 875K Unlocked 2.93GHz LGA 1156 $299.99

RAM:
XMS3 6GB DDR3-1600 (PC-12800) CL8 Memory Kit (Three 2GB Memory Modules) $179.99

Graphics Card:
Asus Nvidia GeForce GTX470 $330 after rebate

Motherboard:
AsusP7H55-M PRO Socket 1156 H55 mATX Motherboard $94.99

Power Supply:
CorsairGS600 Gaming Series High Performance 600 Watt ATX Power Supply$79.99 after rebate

Hard Drive:
SeagateBarracuda 7200.12 ST31000528AS 1TB 7,200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM $69.99

Case:
GigabyteGZ-PH2A30 Mid-Tower Chassis - Black $24.99

Total Cost before Discount: $1080

I’m buying from that site (well the store most likely) because I get a discount there.

Any suggestions on stuff I should change or stuff that needs to be added is appreciated. And I realize that I haven’t yet picked a monitor :stuck_out_tongue: .

That CPU can run turbo at 3.6 GHz at 1.4v - that’s pretty damn high for Intel standards, I strongly suggest you grab a high quality custom cooler for the CPU and overclock it (otherwise why bother getting an Intel i7).

Also, it’s not always a good idea saving money on a cheap computer case, I did the same and you could run into some problems like if you need to install backplates for custom coolers or want to run tests outside the case (removable trays).

Intel stock CPU coolers are really bad, even a cheap custom cooler with copper heatsink will greatly improve temperatures. This will make sure your CPU won’t overheat when running at its highest turbo frequency (or if you overclocked it)

Also, your powersupply seems a bit on the low side, it’s a good quality PSU but don’t forget they lose power over time (yeah I know it’s 80+ certified but still) so it’s always best to get a little extra power. I have a somewhat similar setup with an older GPU and I’m using an Antec 80+ bronze 750 watt PSU. This will also make sure your PSU isn’t running at full power every time you play a game increasing its lifespan.

edit:

Also, make sure that the memory you’re going to use is on the motherboards QVL (qualified vendor list) otherwise you could run into some really annoying problems. When you boot your computer go to the BIOS and make sure you set the proper timing and voltages for the memory. Also scroll down and look for the B2B (back-to-back) CAS latency, some idiot decided it’s a good idea to put this timing on zero which will result in random system lock-ups and freezes - DON’T forget to change it!

I’d really recommend you skip over the Fermi line of GPUs.

ATi cards such as the 5870 offer very close performance for considerably less money and heat.

EDIT: This might explain it. https://www.tomshardware.com/forum/284842-33-5870-5850

Just don’t go for a dual-GPU ATI card, the dual-GPU’s from both nVidia and ATI still have microstuttering. This issue can only be solved if you have enough graphics power to get a framerate higher than the refreshrate of a monitor (usually 60 Hz).

Microstuttering will make all the extra FPS you get from dual-GPUs completely worthless, infact I find it so annoying I’ll never go dual-GPU again unless I have overkill graphics power. Some people won’t notice it or find it annoying, but if you’re used to smooth gameplay without any stuttering whatsoever then I strongly advise you not to go dual-GPU. I’m one of those guys that will rage hard when I even notice the slighest stutter.

The i7 that you have there is an 1156 one, which uses dual channel memory. You have a triple channel kit. If you want triple channel memory, you’re going to have to step up to a 1366 mobo/cpu (i7 9xx series).

I’d recommend against that particular i7 and go for either the i5 760 ($200) or the i7 930 ($290, or ~$200 at Microcenter). The i5 is basically the same expect it’s clocked slightly slower and it doesn’t have hyperthreading, and neither of those matter anyway. You can easily overclock it and I would disable hyperthreading because it’s useless unless you’re actually using 8 threads, increases power draw and temperature, and doesn’t affect or even decreases game performance.
The i7 930, on the other hand, costs more as a platform due to a more expensive chipset/mobo (LGA 1366 as opposed to LGA 1156) and triple channel memory. However, triple channel memory is better performance-wise in theory and in certain applications, and the more expensive chipset gives you 36 PCIe lanes as opposed to the 1156’s 16 total. That doesn’t matter if you’re only using 1 16x card, but when you’re using 2 16 lane cards, both are downgraded to 8x/8x on a nice mobo and 8x/4x on a shitty one. Sounds bad in theory, but in practice going to 8x/8x is only about a 5% performance decrease as compared to 16x/16x.

TL;DR: get an i5 760 and save $100 bucks.

Also, switch out that seagate for a WD or Hitachi, Seagates haven’t been very reliable as of late.

Good thing you mention that, I forgot the 1156 uses dual-channel. :fffuuu:

Okay, so I looked through your suggestions (thanks btw, I’d be lost without you guys :stuck_out_tongue: ) and this is now my list:

Processor:'https://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0337971’Core i5 760 $169.99

RAM:
XMS3 6GB DDR3-1600 (PC-12800) CL8 Memory Kit (Three 2GB Memory Modules) $179.99

Graphics Card:
Asus Nvidia GeForce GTX470 $330 after rebate

Motherboard:
AsusP7H55-M PRO Socket 1156 H55 mATX Motherboard $94.99

Power Supply:
Corsair Gaming Series 800 Watt High Performance ATX Power Supply$129.99 after rebate

Hard Drive:
Hitachi Deskstar 0S02860 1TB 7200 RPM 3.5" Internal Hard Drive $59.99

Case:
V9 BlacX Edition Gaming Mid Tower ATX Case with build in USB 3.0 $79.99 after rebate

So that comes to about $1045 before the employee discount. I still have to buy a monitor, disc drive, and Windows 7, though :fffuuu: .

That CPU is still dual-channel, not triple-channel, yet you chose a triple channel memory kit (3x2 Gb)

Look up the QVL of the motherboard, find the proper memory supported for the motherboard and see if it works in conjunction with the CPU. Not doing this can result in massive stability problems or your PC will not recognize the memory at all.

Also note that the latest Intel CPU’s are rated to work at a memory speed of up to 1333 MHz, if you buy 1600 MHz then you’re going to have to overclock the CPU otherwise you will not achieve the 1600 MHz frequency. Overclocking automatically means that you need custom cooling on the CPU.

I also have 1600 MHz memory, and had to overclock my i7 930.

So you’re saying with that motherboard I can only use 4GB of memory or am I misunderstanding? I would prefer to not have to overclock, I’m not even sure how I would go about doing that :retard: .

Edit: It says it supports DDR3-2133 (O.C.), DDR3-1333, DDR3-1066. Guess I have to search by that then.

Yea, notice the (O.C.) which stands for ‘overclock’. Also, don’t worry about the memory frequency, the difference between 1333 Mhz and 1600 MHz is not noticable in games, only in certain applications such as WinRAR. The timings of your memory are far more important (like 8-8-8-24) don’t forget to set the timings and voltages of your memory in the BIOS when first booting your computer, this is NOT done automatically unless you have X.M.P. memory.

About the memory channels, just look up the QVL (qualified vendor list) of the motherboard which can be downloaded from the ASUS site. This is a list of all the types and brands of memory with the exact product number that are officially supported by that motherboard. All you have to do is look up the desired amount of memory and the speed at which you want it to run.

edit:

Setting the timings / voltages in the BIOS is easy, simply boot up the computer, enter the BIOS and look for memory configuration and memory voltage.
The correct settings are listen on a sticker on the side of your memory (like 8-8-8-24 1.65v), so in the BIOS you follow that order by entering value 8 in the first three timings and so on.
Do not set a higher voltage than 1.65 for the memory, the memory controller is now put inside the Intel CPU instead of the motherboard and according to Intel it can only handle a maximum of 1.65 v

The motherboard itself (the QVL) says that it supports OCZ 6GB 3X2GB memory and yet when I look it up it says that that is triple channel. I’m not sure if it’s the same but the website doesn’t list the part number.

https://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0301256

When I look up some information on your motherboard it says it supports dual channel memory and i7 CPU’s, hmm I find that rather wierd because a i7 is triple channel (anyone care to clarify I haven’t been active in the nerd world for a while)

All I know is that the CPU you picked is dual channel for sure.

edit:

How stupid of me, I just checked my own motherboards manual, you can use dual channel memory configurations on a triple channel motherboard too.
So basically you still need dual channel because that’s what your CPU supports, but your motherboard also supports a triple channel CPU using triple channel memory configurations.

edit 2:

You can download your motherboards manual on the ASUS website, this is the best tool one can have when building a PC. It has a full list of how to install the memory DIMM’s (in which slots you gotta put them etc.)

edit 3:

Here’s the configurations I can use for my motherboard (ASUS P6T Deluxe V2) - you should look up the ones you can use in the manual.

A* Supports two (2) modules inserted into slot A1 and B1 as one pair of Dual-channel memory configuration
B* Supports three (3) modules inserted into the orange slots (A1, B1 and C1) as one set of Triple-channel memory configuration
C* Supports four (4) modules inserted into the orange slots (A1, B1 and C1) and the black slot A2 as one set of Triple-channel memory configuration
D* Supports six (6) modules inserted into both the orange slots and the black slots as two sets of Triple-channel memory configuration

So yeah, your motherboard supports both dual- and triple channel memory, but you can only use dual-channel because of the CPU you’re using.

What the hell is the difference between Clarkdale and Lynnfield?

They are different codenames for a specific set of CPU’s

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Core_i5

Well, I was wanting 6GB or more but I guess I have to settle for 4GB :frowning: . Oh well, that should still be plenty.

Edit: Well, you know, the UM says that this supports “C: Supports 2 pairs of modules inserted into both the blue and black slots as two pairs of dual memory configuration.” Does this mean I can buy two of them for a total of 8GB or is this just wishful thinking?

Yes, you are not limited to 4 Gb, as you just posted you can use 2x 4 Gb to get 8 Gb memory in a pair of dual-channel configuration. If that’s what the motherboard says then yes it will work fine. Just put the memory sticks in the correct slots as listed in the manual. For example, my mobo/CPU supports triple-channel, but I can also use six sticks of memory in a pair of triple-channel memory configs.

You could probably run 6 Gb too, but the CPU was optimized to work with a dual-channel configuration, using a seperate memory module to get 6 Gb could cause stability problems or the PC won’t boot at all. I suggest you either go for 4 Gb or 8 Gb (8 Gb is probably best depending on what you use the PC for, especially with stuff like modelling you can easily fill up 8 Gb)

edit:

I also just noticed you chose a computer case with USB 3.0 - but your motherboard only has USB 2.0 slots.

:awesome:

Okay…

Processor:'https://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0337971’Core i5 760 $169.99

RAM:
url=‘https://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0317772’[/url]Gold Series XTC Cooler 4GB DDR3-1333 (PC3-10666) Dual Channel Memory Kit (Two 2GB Memory Modules) 2 x $69.99 after rebate $140

Graphics Card:
Asus Nvidia GeForce GTX470 $330 after rebate

Motherboard:
AsusP7H55-M PRO Socket 1156 H55 mATX Motherboard $94.99

Power Supply:
Corsair Gaming Series 800 Watt High Performance ATX Power Supply$129.99 after rebate

Hard Drive:
Hitachi Deskstar 0S02860 1TB 7200 RPM 3.5" Internal Hard Drive $59.99

Case:
V9 BlacX Edition Gaming Mid Tower ATX Case with build in USB 3.0 $79.99 after rebate

Price: $1005

So I still need a monitor, a disc drive, and Windows 7. Maybe a replacement fan and heat sink for the CPU as well.

A good quality CPU cooler is definitely a plus, the stock Intel coolers are balls. With W7 and a 24" monitor you should be able to get everything for roughly 1500 dollars.

A 24 inch monitor will dramatically increase the quality of gaming, it also requires a lot more graphics power due to the high resolution but you should be fine with that setup. I know because I have a ‘somewhat’ similar system with an older GPU and I can run everything fine at 1920x1200 (resolution of a 24 inch monitor)

Also, make sure that mobo fits in the case. The last thing you want is finding out the screwholes for the motherboard standouts are not alligned lol. (as you know the motherboard is not allowed to touch the case)

It should be less than $1500 since I get an employee discount at the store. It’s something like I have to pay 5-10% higher than what the store paid for it. A guy I work with said he saved something like $400 or $500, I just have to look up the prices.

And with the case I might shop around a little when I actually get around to buying the parts.

And does this look like a good monitor?
https://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0333077

Pick one that has a higher resolution, 1920x1200 instead of 1920x1080

Been using a Samsung Syncmaster @ 1920x1200 for two years now - superb monitor. :awesome:

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