He said changing the RAM stuff helped so far. Just trying to rule out that it was him that damaged the motherboard or something if the repair didn’t go so well.
yeah, but I would wait for a new post from him before posting another suggestion
Here is a update!
It might be improper memory timings and voltage. My mobo boosts all the components by default. By using the correct timings and the voltage that the RAM supports the system lasted the entire night. No random turn offs yet.
We are not in the clear. When I get out of work today I will stress test the system to ensure that it was indeed the memory timings and not something else.
I’ll keep you all posted. Again thank you all. Let’s see if we nailed it!
Yes dad.
If you don’t manage to fix the problem this way, I’d recommend checking the Intel website to see if it is possible to turn off the automatic overclocking the mobo seems to want to implement. 
Sounds about right. Like I said in my last post, memory timings and voltage can cause some crazy problems. As a test, you can run Prime95 (or the CPU/memory stress test of your choice) with and without the Turbo Boost and automatic system overclock enabled.
I’ve seen motherboards that do across-the-board percentage-based overclocks - is that what yours is doing?
Just a side note here, Hubi - I don’t think the temperatures you are seeing are unreasonable…I’m running an i7 950 in my laptop and routinely get temperatures of around 70-75 on startup. I’d be more inclined to think that the voltages are your culprit.
I’m sure you did. Wooo! 
You’re overreacting. It’s almost impossible keep a CPU like that at 30 degrees idle with stock cooling. When overclocking people try to keep it below 80 C while running a Prime95 stress test to ensure maximum stability. When you’re pumping a high voltage through the CPU for your overclock then idle temperatures could easily be around 40 degrees unless you go for water cooling.
Cooling the CPU MOSFET’s would be way more important at higher voltages, not to mention the actual Tj Max for most CPU’s is unknown or varies from each model (meaning core temperatures, especially at idle can be highly innacurate depending on the TJ Max you’ve set in the monitoring program). The sensors were meant to make sure the CPU starts throttling when it roughly hits the thermal threshold, not to accurately display core temperatures.
He is getting 50ºC at idle after he turned off Intel turbo boost. Normal idle temps for the i7-860 are on the 30’s… Ok, higher 30’s, but still 30’s. I guess after being powered on for a while/in the summer it’s normal if it goes over 40, but shortly (not immediately) after booting up it should be under that.
Anyway, that’s idle which doesn’t mean that much, and that’s why I told him to run OCCT for a few minutes. Now, if he gets near 80ºC under load, with no OC, I think we can agree the cooler isn’t dissipating the heat very well and his CPU is probably gonna start throttling down. It’s not gonna harm it, but under normal conditions it shouldn’t do that.
I didn’t mean to alarm him, or tell him is CPU is gonna blow, just that if it’s idling at 50ºC he should check it under load before dismissing overheating, because 50ºC at idle is still a lot for that specific CPU.
Cheers.
Hmmm… I had a problem like this with My old PC.
Incase you haven’t fixed it already, when it shuts down does it have an orange/amber light near/on the power button? If so it’s almost guaranteed a heat problem. My old PC did that and I “fixed” the problem by having a small fan blow air right into the PC and that worked almost flawlessly. It wasn’t a good fix but it held me over till I was able to afford a new HDD (I think that was it).
maybe he has no orange/amber LEDs 
and btw, read before you post
- I’m sure you installed them, being the webmaster and as such, a tech oriented guy, but just in case; Standoffs. If you haven’t put the standoffs in the motherboard, do so NOW. (I stress this, because I had no idea they existed when I put together my first computer a few months ago and as such almost fried my brand-new motherboard)
- Check all the connections inside, make sure they are snug.
I doubt you did anything wrong building it, but perhaps there was something you missed. I dunno.
I did.
he didn’t post anything new, so I think it’s fixed now
Hey Guys.
The issue was the PSU and memory timing. Everything seems to be working perfect now. I will announce the person who gets the free steam game by the end of the day.
Now. As for a new CPU fan/sink. Can anyone suggest a good one that does not require me to remove the board to place support under the mobo. I don’t want to do this whole process again haha.
Im taking it you dont have a cut out on the motherboard standoff backplate then?
([COLOR=‘Red’]if you do, https://www.thermaltake.com/product_info.aspx?PARENT_CID=C_00001496&id=C_00001497&name=Silent+1156&ovid=n) its a tooless design.
Next time don’t forget to set the timings and voltages for your memory. This is a must. The auto settings of the motherboard can cause lots of stability problems as they tend to jump a lot or pump way too much voltage through the RAM then needed (especially when you’ve got a CPU with integrated memory controller like the Intel i7’s).
If you’re too lazy to do that, buy X.M.P memory next time lol.
Glad you got it sorted! 
As for the CPU cooler, I would recommend this beast. My brother is currently using it for his i7 3.4ghz machine and it keeps the temps very low (not sure on the exact temperature range) but it is very quiet at speed. Looks cool aswell. 
EDIT: I believe you might need to remove the motherboard for this one, it is definitely worth it though.
Good to hear! Always glad to see someone fix their PC (especially when it’s something so annoying as random BSODS/resets).
As for a new HSF (heatsink/fan), I’d recommend something with direct heatpipes. For my next build, I plan to use the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. MaximumPC gave it a 10/10 + Kickass Award (which unfortunately caused NewEgg to double its price). Nevertheless, you can find it on the interwebs for ~$30US, but it does require the removal of the motherboard.
So my recommendation for “the best” is the Hyper 212, but in the interest of keeping your rig in one piece, I’d go with the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. I used it on a i5-750 build for a friend and it keeps it around 32°C idle; I’m using its “younger brother”, the Freezer 64, on my AMD build right now, and temps range from 38-45°C (in a 82°F room).
Installation is simple enough - push pins using the stock mounting bracket. You can also orient the fan whichever direction you like (pending, of course, the height of your RAM and proximity of the MOSFETS to your CPU socket).
the Scythe Orochi is also pretty good or the Scythe Mugen.
sorry for not providing links, but my PSU died(again -_-), so I write from my iPod