Knew about the goggles. Korea has a super-ass-strict-like-crazy-we-arrest-airsofters-for-absolutely-no-reason-because-the-public-wants-it laws about airsoft.
Hmm, should I buy some extra magazines? Or is the fight not hectic enough to use the speedloader during battle?
Also can you tell me the rules?
Rules depend on the field that you play at, so you’ll have to look that up yourself. But GENERALLY, most fields have a minimum engagement distance, plus some kind of death rule for what you do when you get shot. Anyone under the minimum engagement distance can’t be shot, but you can usually “surrender” them by calling “surrender” or “bang bang” or some equivalent, IF you get the drop on them. I’m not sure about Korea, and the specifics vary per field.
I highly recommend extra magazines, but that really depends on the magazine capacity (and your budget for extras) Speedloading during a game takes too much time IMO.
I personally prefer to use mid-capacity magazines since they don’t shake like maracas when you move, and you don’t have to wind them. Hi-capacity mags clearly hold FAR more rounds (at least double or so) but the downsides are they’re noisy and you have to wind them. Annoying, IMO, but it’s up to you to decide whether the trade-off is worth it.
Since you asked about gear I’ll reiterate what I said before:
I’m just going to post this here even though it looks like you’ve settled on a sale.
https://www.hobbytron.com/AirsoftPistols.html
Lol airsoft. Buy a wheel gun.
Ok so now that I bothered to click the link since I couldn’t get to it before, I would take the time to tell you that the Echo 1 SCAR-H (ASC-H) is made by DBoys. That means crap quality pot metal and non amazing internals. Also as a side note, the folding stock doesn’t stay folded on that particular gun for some strange reason. I think the latch that is supposed to keep it folded just isn’t built to engage or something.
If you really want it though I won’t stop you. After all, you’ll be getting the warranty if it breaks within 30 days, heh.
Hmm, can you find me a decent gun under 300 bucks? Please?
Depends on what model you want. MP5? M4? You said you liked bullpups. Are you planning to go CQB or field?
$300 is a nice and generous budget for a starter BTW.
Field.
So that rules out most SMG style AEGs. So a rifle.
And you prefer Bullpup style rifles? Hmm… See, bullpup in the Airsoft market is relatively limited unless you wanna risk getting lower quality guns or you’re willing to pay over your budget…
If you were to not care as much about it, what model guns would you want?
EDIT: How about an AUG? https://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_91&products_id=1908
Doesn’t come with a battery or charger though unfortunately. If you add a battery + charger you’d probably go over $300.
How much are you willing to spend on items other than the gun?
And where do you plan to get the AUG shipped to? Because if it’s outside the US you’d have to find a different website (Airsoft GI doesn’t ship outside the US, and all of Evike’s AUGs are out of stock unfortunately).
May not be very relevant to the discussion anymore but I would like to make a couple points.
I never really cared much about the warranty. Back when I couldn’t just fix it myself, the local store matched their warranty with any gun purchased from them, but nowadays I could build these things from scratch given the parts so a warranty just costs me money shipping it to the manufacturer.
Echo 1 does rebrand their guns but I will note that rebranded Jing Gongs at least get a different gearbox shell, metal bushings instead of JG’s plastic ones, and a different motor. This is observed from personal disassembly, repair, maintenance, etc.
True, not all Echo 1s are plastic. But at least at the field I regularly play at, the stigma of “cheap and plastic” still seems to linger on the brand. In fact I’ve heard people recommend Classic Army’s AEGs over Echo 1s specifically for the metal bodies, when anyone who’s cracked open one of their gearboxes can tell you that most Classic Armies are manufactured primarily out of shit.
As for a recommendation, as someone who does a lot of custom work himself, a cheaper gun such as an Echo 1 or Jing Gong plus internal upgrades is a no-brainer. But for someone who doesn’t do their own gearbox work, something shooting closer to the 400FPS mark out of the box like a KWA (out of your price range I think) or VFC is probably the best bet.
Of course if you’re a madman with loads of money to spare, there’s nothing more fun than an Asahi or Daytona gun HPA rifle. Or bar that, a WE Gas Blowback Rifle. But with those you’re looking at thousands of dollars of gear in magazines and tanks. Couple of my teammates have those and they love them though.
I’d spend 400 dollars total.
Hmm, I’ve always wondered what they did to the gearbox. I knew they slapped in their own motor and did something else to the internals but E1 hasn’t really been too specific and I never really bothered to find out what they changed other than the motor (they even change the motor for their VFC OEM guns for some reason…)
I’ve heard bad things about CA internals. I don’t really hear of a lot of people getting CA guns anymore though, but from what I hear they used to be much more popular. Maybe it’s just who I hear from.
Well for a starter, I doubt self-tech work would be a great option unless they’d be willing to learn gearbox work along with the normal startup phase. That’s why I would’ve rather gotten VFC in this scenario; it’s good for the price and works well stock. 
And as for KWA, it’s more annoying to get replacement parts for them when they break since they don’t tend to follow TM spec. VFC can accept whatever stuff you want to throw into it.
Gas Blowback Rifles are pretty inconsistent in performance though, aren’t they?
What about the (relatively) new King Arms M4 GBB?
Oh then that would give you plenty of room to maneuver. ~$270 more or less for a gun, plus maybe $20 to $30 for a battery and maybe $30 - $35 for a charger. That gives you some room for maybe extra mags and gear if you want (including eyepro).
If you do happen to need to go battery shopping, I would suggest an Intellect battery (voltage depending what rate of fire and size of battery you want) and some kind of smart charger so that you don’t accidentally destroy your battery while charging it.
Why don’t you look around the sites and see what you like? Ultimately it’s up to you since you would probably know what style you want.
I have a friend who knows how to work with gearboxes. So self-tech work IS an option. Is it better to buy something from the boneyard and make it from scratch or buy one?
What is the general opinion of Red Ryders? I have a sawn-off one that I want to use against some super hardcore red tiger camo tacticool chumps
Also pellet guns.
Well if you were to buy a cheap gun like a JG or something, then be willing to do the research to find out which upgrade parts you want to buy in addition to the gun (tightbore barrel, gears, hopup bucking, bushings, piston, spring, some shims, etc), plus some gear grease and lubricants, then it could cost you either slightly less, or around the same (depending on which parts you get). Haven’t tried it myself though, but I mean to learn eventually.
Gearbox internals tend to be much cheaper than gun externals though. But in your case, I would much rather just pick something that performs well stock right out of the box, and wait for it to break later in the long run before attempting gearbox work. That way, you won’t have to mess around before you start shooting, and you’ll still be able to have room for upgrades in the future.
I personally don’t know much about Red Ryders, except that they tend to be gravity-fed, or so I found out last time I read up on them. I’ve heard things about the inaccuracy of Red Ryders, and that they’re mostly just for plinking cans and stuff like that. Metal BBs tend to do significantly more damage though, especially if they match the velocity of airsoft guns. I doubt that they’d be allowed in an Airsoft match, unless you’re talking about a backyard battle, and even then, Metal BBs pose risks due to their ability to break and/or shatter eye protective gear. Not to mention that they would hurt a lot more.
Pellet guns are only really good for plinking. When I fire them the pellets tend to squash on impact unless they’re hitting plastic (like Legos), in which case they either embed themselves into the plastic, or leave a nasty mark. Produces a pretty neat effect, actually.
I hear the G&G Combat Machine series is good as a starter gun if you don’t mind getting an M4 like everbody else on the planet:
https://www.airsoftpost.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=combat+machine&Submit=Search
Also, I would advise against buying a China clone or rebrand as a first gun. If you want a SCAR or F2000 and you’re willing to spend a lot of money you should really get something like a G&G
https://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=16&products_id=34566
https://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=33698
(they make all black versions as well)
I don’t know about Combat Machines. Electric Blowback guns are kind of pointless in my opinion since the moving bolt mechanism just adds to the number of things that can possibly break on your gun. Electric Blowbacks in general tend to consume battery and sometimes even FPS since it needs to operate another moving part, and for a minuscule benefit of barely added “realism”. I’ve heard that G&G Combat Machines do tend to avoid the battery consumption and FPS drop though, due to the unique way that the bolt is attached to the gearbox.
And if you’re willing to spend $380 on a SCAR, then I would pick VFC over the G&G: https://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=408_419&products_id=3886
VFC is well-known for their top quality SCARs (I can personally vouch for this because I have one), and G&G from what I’ve heard does not make as good internals as VFC. HOWEVER, if you want the FN F2000 then G&G is pretty much the only way to go since they’re the only company that actually makes them as far as I know. Correct me if anyone else makes them.
Meh… Expensive. I’ll just grab some L85 from the junkyard, fix it, and use it. So… How many magazines should I have?
If you wanna do that, and if your friend already has plenty of replacement parts he can put into it for you, then if that’s what you want, fine.
Magazines should only be limited by what you can effectively carry, heh. And your budget.
The L85 accepts STANAG-type magazines so you’re in luck since there are a lot of those out there. Plus they’re easier to carry, IMO. Would you prefer hicaps or midcaps?
I would prefer not winding. I had a winding mag, and GOD IT SUCKED.
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