Whenever I hit the lightswitch in the kitchen my sink turns on.
Oh, there’s room for two. In fact I first moved here to have room to be with someone. So it’s feeling lonely without you.
But don’t bring anything more intense than a laptop.
Thanks, this actually sounds like a good idea… my bedroom’s breaker is only a 20-amp! (The hot water heater gets 30, the central heating has 40, and the stove is allowed a 50 amp tolerance… I think the bedroom could do well with 30.)
they’re concrete, so, my fear of fire is low, and if it burns out, then I’ll just have to settle for the extension-cord idea…
Computers don’t draw much power. Neither do routers or anything related to computers. That is because these all operate on transformers, mostly on 12 volts, so they could easily work on batteries as well. Of course, drawing lots of amperes is what causes circuit breakers to break the circuit, not volts. But these things don’t draw lots of amps either.
So I’m pretty sure something you own is actually faulty, and it is causing temporary short-circuits, which also set off the breaker. Could be the transformer in your computer or router, or anything.
Because once again, light bulbs, washing machines, ovens, electric heating and hair dryers are the ones that eat loads of amps and can set off fuses, not the high-tech stuff that run on low voltage and wattage.
Just because something uses 0.1 amps doesn’t mean it can’t trip the circuit breaker when other stuff already brought it to the limit.
“fun” fact until the whole thing catches fire.
That’s not how it works… you can’t just swap the breaker for a bigger one. It’s 20 amps for a reason. Mostly the wiring… Water heater, stove, and other energy-hungry equipments use bigger wiring and are made to draw more current. Allowing more than 20 amps to a few bedroom sockets could be dangerous, and if you catch fire for any reason, it could very well void any insurance you have.
These kinds of changes have to be made by an electrician anyway, otherwise you might end up voiding insurances as well.
The only solution is to go get power elsewhere, or to move equipments to other rooms. You could get an extension cord through a wall / closet.
If you don’t think your whole thing draws 20 amps, you could get the breaker tested, it’s possible that it now trips way under 20 amps. List your equipments, with their wattage, and you’ll see.
Edit: oops, double post
i will steal your computer 100% of the time
OH OK FORUM.
bscly
And after that, it’s still, fun, but in a different way.
But Sersoft lives in Canada. :fffuuu:
i have to do the wrapping new fusewire round the things when it goes and tbh burning to death would almost be preferable. its def not legal to have that in a flat like mine anymore too.
canada > michigan
Very possible, considering the stuff is anywhere from 9 to 39 years old. It’s the only circuit breaker of its style in the box… meaning the rest might have been replaced more recently. I’m almost certain it’s pre-90s composition. Definitely no later than 1995.
End result: you feel neglected because nobody changed your breaker but you don’t feel ignored because you get to talk about it online
I can’t really comment on that because I’ve never been to Michigan.
But French Canada. :fffuuu:
I don’t have to stay in Quebec but I love the diversity and the people are very nice and funny. Don’t bash it if you don’t live here.
Erm, I’m not sure what you mean. Nobody can replace it but me. In fact I wasn’t aware until now that breaker-age could be to blame, that degradation to a lower tolerance is possible or routine.
https://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrical-Wiring-Home-1734/circuit-breakers.htm says:
Being extremely generous with the first figure from this site’s responder,
- 6 amps for 2 computers starting up
- 4 amps for running 2 monitors (specs say 1.6a consumption each)
- 2 amps for external hard drive (spec says 1.5a out)
- 3 amps for router (spec says 2.5a out)
- 2 amps for speakers (spec says 1.2a out)
- 1 amp DSL modem (spec says 0.9a out)
Total worst-case overinflated scenario, I’m drawing 18 amps. Going by the specs everything gives, 10.7 amps of the 20 should be available to the desktops (but to be fair, there’s an alarm clock I have no measure for). I’m guessing now that my problem is due to an old circuit breaker that doesn’t reach its promise of 20.
Well the part where I said you talk about it on the internet is definitely true.