The possible problems with no-brand PSU’s IMO are three:
-reliability (they may last way shorter than they should and/or fry other components in the process)
-efficiency (which will make you spend more money in the long run)
-output (many times, the output wattage advertised in the box is exchanged for the peak wattage, meaning that it doesn’t output constant wattage for your needs).
In my case:
https://www.engadget.com/2007/01/24/pentium-4-overclocked-to-8ghz-lets-see-your-fancy-core-2-try-t/
Read it to the end.
Haha holy shit.
Mine doesn’t go that high 
Lemme try to get my i5 that high. computer melts
I can hax.
Doesn’t OCing lower your cpu’s lifespan anyway?
Yes, but not significantly if it’s got good cooling.
Also, how’s the onboard audio for the ASUS P8P67? Good enough to go without a dedicated sound card?
none, my Scythe Ninja II only lets the CPU go up to 57C using intel’s burn test, and I’m still running my original E2160 at 2.8Ghz
It’s onboard audio, so it depends on your needs. It’s not as awful as older integrated audio cards were, but it’s certainly not great. If you like lots of detail in your music or crystal clear audio, you’ll have to get a dedicated soundcard.
If you have or want to use a surround system (5.1 or 7.1), I’d recommend an Asus Xonar STX, or a DX if you don’t want to shell out that much money. With only two speakers, maybe it’s better to get a usb DAC, specially if you listen to music a lot. Have in mind that if you don’t have good speakers (that most of the times need a dedicated amp to drive them) no sound card in the world is going to make crappy speakers sound good. Just my 2 cents.
I find my onboard audio to plenty good enough for my needs. Of course, I’m only running 2.1 system, I don’t think you’d notice the difference between onboard and dedicated with only 2 drivers. Of course, I’ve read that surround setups and directional audio sound tinny on most onboard audio devices, although I’ve never actually experienced it.
As for brand name PSU’s, I know from personal experience that the PSU is the root of the stability of a PC. If your PSU is faulty, or outputting unstable voltages, you risk wrecking other stuff in your PC, particularly the motherboard and video card. When you buy brand name PSU’s, your chances of getting faulty or unstable units is significantly decreased. That is one place where you should spend your money and not cheap out.
Also, a note on wattage, a PC realistically will only use about 400 watts during normal use (gaming, working, whatever). Most people assume that the wattage is the only number they should look for on a PSU, but the more important factors are the amps supplied on the +12V, +5V, and +3.3V rails. A 500 watt PSU that pushes out 60 amps on it’s rails is much better than a 1000 watt PSU that only supplies 35 amps. As I stated before, I chose my PSU based on the rated amperage of the 12V rail. As an engineer, I can tell you that currents and voltages are much more important than watts. Watts are just a measurement of the energy used over a length of time, the number written on the box of the PSU is only a generalization of what you are looking for. You can think of the wattage as the size of engine in a car. A big engine is fine and dandy, but if it has hardly any horsepower (amps) then it won’t do you much good. The more horsepower, the better it will work, regardless of the size of engine. I suggest looking up benchmarks of potential PSU’s you are looking at and see what their amperage is on the 12V rail(s) before purchasing it.
by the way, never ever buy one of coolermaster’s extreme power plus series PSU’s. NEVER.
lol, I just read one of the reviews, good laugh
I bought two sticks of ram once that said “the warranty is voided if you use a coolermaster extreme power plus”. That’s how bad they are.
Wow, that’s bad.
Uh, where did you find it ? Because all the bad reviews I saw were because they were DOAs, but that can happen to anything.
I googled something on my phone, it was a 500w power plus review and they said that the model number doesn’t say “w” just 500 to avoid lawsuits, and it says maximum power for 12v + 5v + 3.3v will not exceed 400w or something… and only 1 pci-e power connector :lol:
/derail
I read that same review, at the end it basically says it would be a good buy if you were like a hobo.