Corsair Vengeance C70. It’s a hell of a lot larger and better than my old Thermaltake.
It will fit.
Noctua NH-U14S here, and it’s a good cooler too! 
By the way, any cooler will succumb to a problem where eventually the thermal paste will dry up and be less effective. Even on water cooling sadly. As for me, I kept my after market air cooling tower because there are no real tangible benefits of overclocking an Intel Core i7 4790K above @4.5 GHz. After that clock rate, the thermals and power required are outrageous, with very little gain.
If you want to water cool, and have some money for it, do it on your graphics card and overclock the snot out of it, that will give you real benefits.
If you do decide to get it, come back and let us know what you think about it!
I just found a use for an extremely old and tiny heat sink for a CPU, and reused it to cool the back plate for the VRM of my graphics card. It removed those artifacts I was getting at a higher overclock. Now I’m wondering what would happen if I put the waterblock for a CPU onto the back plate of this GPU that I own.
I’ll probably get it at my next paycheck. Expect me back early next month with a status update!
Man, I hope you have a lot of money to toy around with. I’d never risk damaging computer components for the sake of experimentation without a guaranteed means of replacement.
Doesn’t seem like a good idea to me at all.
The benefits would be close to none since the backplate usually isn’t in direct contact with anything.
I believe if you do this you run a high risk of creating condensation since there is a gap between the GPU PCB and backplate, i am almost willing to bet condensation will occur, i don’t think you want water on your GPU.
OP, when you fit the new CPU cooler, make sure you remove the old paste from the CPU with a rag and a few drops of alcohol.
It’s likely that the EVO will come with pre-applied thermal paste, at least in my experience, so it will need a good, clean surface to sit on.
I’ve got the new cooler! It’s a pretty li’l thang.
I’ll update again when I get around to putting it in! I would have already, but I’ve been pretty busy and haven’t been playing many games lately.
Cool.
Copper transmits heat better than aluminum does, but one made of copper and the other aluminum, copper is the better choice and will keep the processor cooler. However, there are cheap copper heatsinks which do not do as good a job at cooling as more expensive aluminum composite sheet heatsinks with fans attached, so it’s not a 100% guarantee that any one made with copper will outperform any aluminum model.
Bit of an old thread to respond to. I’ve been using a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for the last year, and it’s been working phenomenally for me. (I do realize I said I’d update when I put it in, but I guess I forgot. Whoops)
Just make sure your PC case has the fan power to extract the hot air inside the case.
That pretty big cooler is pointless if the air around it is hot.
I have a similar giant CPU Cooler, and my case has 7 fans in total.
Two in front for sucking air in, and 2 on top and 3 on bottom for letting air out.
You just got botted! 
I… Have made a mistake.
I know this is a bit of a necro but a few years ago I built a game box and I went full liquid cooling. CPU and dual GPU. It is amazing and I have never got my cpu over 50*
I know liquid cooling is generally the best way to go. I just wouldn’t trust myself to hook it up properly. Last thing I need is a botched installation frying my whole computer with a few stray droplets.
It’s a risky setup. It’s so popular today that barely anyone realizes how dangerous it can be.
You can get a small power supply that can run the pump while you test for leaks. I have been running my game box for nearly 2 years without a hitch. The coolant is still blue with no sediment
It isn’t dangerous at all. It works great and these days you can buy non conducting coolant if you are clumsy and want to change your coolant when your computer is on